The absence of maps produced generations of Namibians who were adept at
finding their way under the most difficult circumstances. Their cunning
method was to stop and ask someone if they knew where something was.
For many years, Namibia had no maps, and the first maps that came along had vast blank chunks sporting the words, “Here be monsters. Take your rifle along and you might find some good hunting.” In fact, the more interesting history books record that the first European to cross the Orange River on Namibia’s southern border and explore the south of the country did so to get away from his wife and daughters, and do some hunting.
The absence of maps produced generations of Namibians who were adept at finding their way under the most difficult circumstances. Their cunning method was to stop and ask someone if they knew where something was. The person whom they asked would describe the landmarks to the traveler in the hope that the person would go away and leave them to herding their cattle or whatever it was they were doing at the time.
A typical set of directions might be, “Travel north for about 40 miles (this was before the decimal system) and look for the four camelthorn trees on the right. When you see them, you have gone too far like everyone else, so turn back and drive for about five miles until you come to the white tyre on the fence. Turn in there. Drive past the little hill. After three gates, turn right at the other white tyre. Now drive another eight miles until you come to the second cattle grid. Just after the third cattle grid, you will come to a farm house about 12 miles on. Ask them. They know where it is. They also make good brandy.”
The brandy helped travelers deal with the frustration.
This may sound amusing but, back in those days, certain types of trees, cattle grids, hills and white tyres on fences were bona fide landmarks. You can see white tyres on fences to this day. Good maps are a relatively new phenomenon, and many of the older Namibians view them with distrust, especially as the white tyres are not marked on them.
Present maps are accurate but lack in the finer details: the small farm roads and tracks, and the very important cattle grids. When visiting a lodge or guest farm in Namibia, the establishment will give you the necessary directions. Ask about the condition of the road though, especially if it is the rainy season, and be certain that your vehicle is up to the task.
Most establishments keep their private roads in fair condition, or will tell you if you need an offroad vehicle. Some establishments have car parks, and will drive you from the car park over the last few kilometers of whatever passes for a road to the actual establishment.
Of late, GPS has emerged. This nifty system gives you very precise map coordinates and, in some countries, even a map. Knowing the latitude and longitude is not particularly useful in Namibia especially if the features of your position indicate that you are now precisely at the end of the track and at the foot of an intimidating mountain called ‘Don’t climb it with a spear’ in the local language*.
GPS is not particularly satisfying. It is difficult to blame something that precise for the fact that you are completely lost. People who use GPS are generally researchers and geologists who are very familiar with the country or mapmakers who are becoming familiar with the country.
The most effective combination is directions and a map. If you can, get directions in advance and check them against a map. If you have booked your visit through a tour company, a representative of the tour company will normally meet you and give you a map and directions before you set off in a quaint but useful ceremony known as a ‘meet ‘n greet’.
If you have to ask directions while en route, note them on a piece of paper and check them on the map with the person whom you are asking. Three of the most obvious places to ask for directions are the place you are leaving, the place you are traveling to and the tour company, if you used one, so ask before you leave and have a mobile phone with the numbers.
As a point of interest, if you aren’t using a tour company, phone the lodge to which you are departing and confirm that you are on your way, and from where you are driving. If you don’t arrive on time, they will worry about you. If you are using a tour company, the establishment at which you should arrive should call the tour company who will also worry about you.
Namibia is a well developed country and there is no reason to have difficulties with directions. However take a bit of care and don’t rely on GPS for now.
* Yes, there really is a mountain here with that name. I saw it. It was a couple of degrees shy of vertical.
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